Too Rude for the Gray Lady?

Language Log reports the discovery of a "name that is so obscene it cannot be printed in the Times EVEN IN FRENCH":

But do not, under any circumstances, skip the classic niçois version of gnocchi (its name, even in French, cannot be printed here), made with Swiss chard and served with one of three sauces: gorgonzola, pistou or tomato. [New York Times, June 4, 2006]

What is it? You'll just have to go to Language Log and find out.